First the disclaimers. My wing is a 1994 interstate. What may be true on my bike may not be true on any other year or on the Asp and SE. Second, my father was a mechanic while I was growing up and was forced to teach me how to fix things when he became disabled. He taught me a lot but just the same this is only a hobby for me I am a software engineer by trade. If my advice helps you out, then great, if not well, that's what you get for asking a programmer... you see, when something I design crashes, no one gets hurt, they just hit the reset button. Only safety tip I'm including is to tie a rag to the brake lever to remind your self that when you are done you will not have any brakes until you pull the lever several times.
Tools: most of what you need is in the tool pack that came with your bike with one exception. The tool to put the seals back in. I used an 18 inch lenght of inch and a half PVC pipe to do this. Would have been perfect if it had just been a hair larger. to make it fit I had to cut a slit down the entire length of the pipe. best part is the plastic shouldn't have any chance of scratching anything. (As long as you keep everything clean.)
Only other tool you will have to find is something to measure the fork oil to refill the forks. We didn't have anything in the house that would do a good job so I had to hit a few stores to find something large enough that I could trust.
Don't remove the springs until the job is done and you are ready to reassembled everything. The only reason you need to open them at all is to refill the forks. Removing them now will only make things harder.
I'm assuming in this note that you already know how to remove the front wheel (which includes removal of the rotor covers, the pop off part of the fender and the brakes) If this isn't the case I can detail the steps in another note. But for now I'll leave it at "With the bike on the center stand place a jack under the engine and remove the front wheel. Remove the speedometer hub from the end of the cable by removing the small screw.
Starting a the top of the fender, the first two bolts are hidden under chrome caps (smaller than a dime). Just keep removing the bolts until the finder is a bunch of parts on the garage floor.
Place a bucket under the forks and remove the drain plug on each fork leg. Put the plug back in when done draining them.
Three more bolts hold each leg to the bike two are reached from below and one from above. To get at the top one you need to remove the plastic piece that surrounds the ignition key area - just lift the back end of it gently and it will come off. You may also have to remove the pieces that are under each side of the handlebars, but they also do not require an tools to remove. Loosen the top bolt first and then loosen the lower two. this way you will be able ta catch the fork when you loosen the third bolt. Take note of how the the forks are positioned before you move them. Mine were just a hair above flush, don't know if this is normal but I put them back the way I found them.
Now that the fork is off the bike you may want to work over a sheet of plastic because each step below may release a bit of left over fork oil.
Use a small screw driver or putty knife to pry up the dust cover. No trick here, just work your way around it until it comes out. Use a small screw driver and needle nose pliers to remove the retaining clip that was under the dust cover.
Now, insert an allen wrench into the bottom end of the fork and remove the bolt that is normally hidden by the axle. You will now be able remove the slider from the fork leg (may have to slide it in and out a few times, but it should come out easy). Watch out for a small (shot glass size) cup in the left leg of some models. It goes back in with the lip towards the bottom.
Start sliding the parts off the top of the fork... Dust seal, Oil seal, Back up ring (it looks like a big washer but there is a slight curve to it, keep track of which side is top), Slider bushing. Finally remove the second smaller bushing (it is a split ring, you should be able to insert your finger nail into it and slide it off the bottom.
Put the new small bushing into place and insert the top half of the fork back into the lower half. Re-insert the bolt at the bottom of the fork. From the top end, slide on the new slider bushing followed by the back up ring (put it back facing the same way it came out). Now grab the PVC pipe/tool and use it to force the bushing and back up ring into the slider. Slide the new oil seal on (with the printing on the top side) and push it in with the pipe. You may have to open the pipe up a bit with a screw driver to pull it off the fork each time but hey, what do you expect for $2. Put the retaining clip back in place... be sure it's in the grove it came out of. Slide on the new dust seal and fit in into place by hand.
Bolt the forks back onto the bike. Insert the axle to keep every thing lined up and reattach the fender. Put the wheel back on along with every thing that comes off with it.
***** NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO PUMP THE BRAKES BACK UP!!! *****
(Don't ask how I know this is so important, I'd only lie.)
The final step is to remove the fork caps. They are spring loaded! Several other have posted detailed instruction on how to do this so I leave it to you to search the archives for this (look for "installing progressive springs"). Refill the forks with 15w fork oil (exact amount is different for each year) and put the caps back on (please read one of the write ups on this).
Replace the few last pieces of plastic and take it for a ride. Any questions - feel free to look me up in the gold book listed in Waterbury CT or email me (firstname.lastname@example.org).
Good luck, John Bellemare